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Free Pattern: The Polly

The Polly Envelope Clutch is a nod to the past. The strap is on the back of the bag instead of hanging from your wrist/elbow.

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Retro Style Envelope Clutch Wristlet

Who’s ready for a fun purse with a nod to the past? This Polly Envelope Clutch was inspired by s bag I saw in an old movie called “The Bachelor Mother” with Ginger Rogers and David Nevin. The entire movie is silly and ridiculous (as it’s supposed to be), but there was a bag Ginger Rodgers had in a scene that I absolutely LOVED and had to try and re-create.

Image of Polly Parish form Bechlor Mother holding a baby at a foundling home.
This image is from the TCM website and is not mine at all. To get details on the movie click on ithe image to go to the TCM website.

See? How cute is that bag on her arm? AND… it is on her arm!! So of course I had to try and re-create this! As a bonus for me, this was another collaboration with the one and only Fairy Tale Yarn Co! This one uses Mermaid Hair DK in her latest collection, Star Trek!

showing the strap around the arm while holding a coffee.

If you’ve never used her yarn, I highly recommend it! Hand-dyed yarn can be expensive, but her yarn is amazing! It’s soft and the colors are so vibrant and beautiful.

This Polly Envelope Clutch pattern not only shares how to crochet the bag, but how to sew it all together and line it (if you choose).

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The Polly - Crochet Pattern Preview

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OK, ON TO THE PATTERN!

This Polly Envelope Clutch pattern is written using standard U.S. terms. Basic stitch knowledge is assumed.

Finished Measurements (all are approximate)

Finished and folded:

  • Length: 10.5 inches (27 cm)
  • Width: 7 inches (18 cm)

Opened and prior to sewing together

  • Length(from top to bottom: 20.5 inches (54 cm)
  • Width(across): 10.5 inches (27 cm)

Yarn

  • 3-Light | DK Yarn (2 strands held together). I used Fairy Tale Yarn Co, Mermaid Hair DK, but any of her DK weights would work beautifully!
  • For project: approximately 490yds (8 oz)

Crochet hooks

Notions

For Optional Lining:

  • Sewing Machine (I linked the exact one that I have. It is seriously used maybe 10 times a year. I use it for very basic sewing, but for me it’s perfect and it’s less than $100, so if you’re not looking for a workhorse, this is a nice option).
  • straight pins
  • thread (something that will match your yarn, or as close as possible.
  • cotton fabric for lining

Gauge

using 2 strands together: 8 sc in 10 rows should measure approximately 2” X 2” (after blocking)

Some Gauge Notes:

I crochet tightly; one person who tested for me, had a higher sc than I did, so our gauge was off a little. She had to use a 5mm crochet hook. But because this is for a bag, it’s not as concerning, except that I use almost all of the yarn in this project. So if you crochet looser, err on the side of caution and grab an extra skein.

Notes

  • This project uses 2 strands held together.
  • It will be made up flat, lined, and then sewn together.

Terms to Know

Ch(s): chain(s)

SC: Single Crochet

sc2tog: Single Crochet Together

St(s): stitch(es)

* * = Repeat instructions between * and * the number of times indicated

Stitch Terms

  • Single Crochet (SC): Insert into the second chain from the hook (or the first stitch). Yarn over (YO) and pull back through the space. YO and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook. The stitch is now completed. Insert your hook into the next chain (or stitch) and repeat.
  • Single Crochet Together (sc2tog): Yarn over (YO), insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the previous round stitch, yarn over (YO), pull up a loop, yarn over (YO) and pull through two loops (two left on hook), yarn over (YO), insert the hook from back to front to back around the next post of the previous round stitch, yarn over (YO), and pull through two loops (three left on hook), yarn over (YO), pull through last 3 loops

Directions:

Starting with the Bag…

  • Row 1: sc into the first ch from the hook, sc across, ch 1 turn
  • Rows 2-64: Sc across (40), ch1, turn (when you get to row 64 DO NOT CUT)

Making the Envelope Flap

  • Row 65: Sc2tog, sc 36, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 66: Sc2tog, sc 34, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 67: Sc across (36), ch1, turn
  • Row 68: Sc2tog, sc 32, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 69: Sc2tog, sc 30, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 70: Sc across (32), ch1, turn
  • Row 71: Sc2tog, sc 28, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 72: Sc2tog, sc 26, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 73: Sc across (28), ch1, turn
  • Row 74: Sc2tog, sc 24, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 75: Sc2tog, sc 22, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 76: Sc across (24), ch1, turn
  • Row 77: Sc2tog, sc 20, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 78: Sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 79: Sc across (20), ch1, turn
  • Row 80: Sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 81: Sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 82: Sc across (16), ch1, turn
  • Row 83: Sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 84: Sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 85: Sc across (12), ch1, turn
  • Row 86: Sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 87: Sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 88: Sc across (8), ch1, turn
  • Row 89: Sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 90: Sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 91: Sc across (4), ch1, turn
  • Row 92: Sc2tog, sc2tog, ch1 turn
  • Row 93: Sc2tog

*If you would rather not do the lining or the snap closure, you can simply ch 5 at the end of row 93, then slip stitch into the 1st ch creating a button loop.

Making the Arm Strap.

Ch 11

Rows 1: sc into the first ch from the hook, sc across, ch 1 turn

Rows 2-30: Sc across (10), ch1, turn

Cut and Weave in ends. I highly recommend blocking the Polly Envelope Clutch. It tends to twist otherwise.

Decide where your snap closure will be. The closure on the body of the bag will go in before the liner. The other half will go on the liner itself.

Assembly (with lining instructions)

The Lining for the Polly Envelope Clutch

Cut a piece of fabric that is the shape of the bag. The lining should be the exact size or a little larger than the bag. I like to use the bag as the template and carefully trace it with a cloth pencil.

Here I have the bag laying on the material so that I can carefully trace around the bag.
This is an image of the bag laying on the lining before I trace or cut.
image of my hand holding the snap where I want it in the bag, before I commit to placement.
Here you see me fitting the snap between stitches to ensure placement BEFORE I attach it together.

Before you sew on the lining, you will need to double-check your snap buttons and see how they need to be attached. Mine needed prepping to decide where I wanted the snap closure to be.

On one side the snap (the one on the inside of the bag, where the envelope top flap connects) I had to insert into the bag prior to sewing on the lining.

An image of the inside of the bag and the back of the clasp.

The envelope flap needed the clasp attached to the lining itself (prior to the lining being sewn on).

Photo of the flap end of the closure after being sewn on to the bag.
this is what the flap looks like after you attach the clasp, and sew the lining on.

Also, I highly recommend adding a piece of felt to this part so it’s a little stronger as you pull on the button (see the image below).

image of the felt lining on the bag lining before clasp attached, hem or sewing.

Once you have all the snaps figured out and in place, fold the material creating a seam. You should have about a 1/4 inch (or 1 cm) gap of knitted material exposed around the edge. I would pin the lining to the bag, then sew it on. Try to use a thread in a matching color to the bag, You can use a sewing machine to complete this part.

image of the lining folded and pinned to bag befor sewing.
This shows the gap I left for connecting the bag and the clasp already attached to the lining and felt.

Fold the body part of the bag in half. Slide it down about a quarter of an inch so that the top corner of the envelope flap touches the bottom of the bag, and does not hang over.

There should be about a quarter of an inch gap between to back and front panels. This image shows the gap for a putter understanding.

Sew up each side

a close up of sewing the sides.
Here is a close-up of how I sew the stitches together.

Now we’re going to add the Arm Strap.

Lay the strap flat onto the back of the bag and center it. You will be sewing the strap on the top and bottom first, then, if needed for fit, you can sew up the sides.

Showing where the strap is on the purse by boxing it in a pink color.

I found it easier to “pin” them with stitch markers.

a close up image of the stitch markers holding the strap corners in place to the stitches counted on the bag itself.

Then sew the strap on. at the very top and bottom of the strap to the bag where pinned.

Showing where I sewed down the end of the strap to connect it to the purse

Next, check to see how loose the strap is on your arm, and if needed, you will sew a little on the sides to tighten the fit. I have pretty skinny arms, so I went up about 8 rows on the top and 8 rows on the bottom.

Image showing the lengths of where I sewed the strap.

*Remember, there will be some stretch. so account for that when you’re trying to decide how tightly to sew it.

That’s It! Now you’re all set for your next adventure or party with your Polly Envelope Clutch!

Making it as a gift?

Remember to include a gift tag when giving your gift. 

Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram or Facebook, @jenngiamsmith #JennGiamSmith 

I love seeing your makes and I will always share your posts on my stories and tag you! 

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The Polly Envelope Clutch Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin.

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